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Redwood Plastics provides the following information as general tips or guidelines to Redco™ liner installation. You may develop alternate techniques or methods, or utilize additional tools that make the installation more efficient.

All liners are coiled for shipping purposes. For ease of installation uncoil the liner at least 24 hours before installation. Inspect the liner for stress cracks or other substantial flaws. If any flaws are detected, do not proceed with installation, instead contact your Redwood Plastics Sales Representative.The optimal installation temperature for liners is between 50 and 80°F. If the liner can be stores and installed in this temperature range, it is recommended. If not, attempt to at lease store the liner in this temperature range before installation.

Clean the surface that is to be lined thoroughly! This includes scraping out compacted materials; sweeping out loose materials; and using water to wash the surface clean. Materials trapped under the liner may cause accelerated wear throughout the liner. Attempt to repair any damage to the lining surface. This would include repairing cracks, removing screw heads or rivets, and patching any holes in the surface.

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When the preparation work is complete, the liner must be positioned on the liner surface. This can be a challenge if the liner is too large to maneuver by hand. A critical tool needed in most installations is an overhead crane, hoist, boom truck, or forklift. Heavy-duty cargo straps can be used to form the liner into the shape it will ultimately retain. The overhead hoist should then be used to lift and position the liner in place. Once the liner is in place, the straps can be removed, and the liner can be allowed to lie out to its final installation position. With longer liners, a fork lift or tractor might be needed to push the liner snugly into place from the rear of the trailer.

If additional scoring, trimming, or cutting of the liner is required, it is best done at this stage. Redco™ liners can be easily fabricated with common shop tools. Circular saws, routers, and grinders can all be used to make any slight dimensional adjustments. Due to thermal expansion and contraction, poly liners will move as the temperature changes. These instructional guidelines will allow you to control and direct the movements of the liner. One critical trim must be made for tailgate allowance. If a liner is 40’ long, it will grow by, as much as 3 ¾", therefore some excess material must be trimmed from the 40’ dimension. The following formula should be used to calculate the amount of trimming needed for Ramex ® Premium Black, Processed Blake and SYM-PLATE ™ only.

0-32° F Trim 0.10" per linear foot.

35-50° F Trim 0.098" per linear foot.

60-75° F Trim 0.093" per linear foot

80-90° F Trim 0.075" per linear foot.

Above 90° F No trimming is required.

Trimming is not typically needed along the width of the liner. Instead, allow for a 0.50" expansion between the liner and the edge protector.It is imperative to mark both the centerline of the liner surface, and the liner. This can be done with a chalk mark, or grease pencil. Maneuver the liner so the center points match up. After the center points have been matched, you are ready for the fastening stage of installation.

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Redco™ poly liners need only to be fastened at the front edge of the trailer and in some cases 1/3" away from the front of the bed, Fasteners along the sides across the rear edge of the liner will prohibit the liner from natural expansion, and cause the liner to warp and wear prematurely. If the liner is not allowed to expand naturally, uneven wear may be consequence of the liner bowing.

LAYOUT FOR BEDS WITH A 90° CLEAR-OUTS

Locate the exact point where the wall and floor meet, this will serve as the center point when scoring the liner for a 90° bend. Measure from the center point of the bed to the exact the corner where the wall and floor meet. Do this at the rear and front of the bed as it is often slightly different. Using a chalk line duplicate those exact measurements onto your liner. Then using a 0.125" wide saw blade, score the liner along the entire length of the liner.

IMPORTANT, the depth of the score is critical- always leave 1/8" of the original liner thickness in tact. The number of scores made will be determined by the thickness of the liner. If 1/4" thick use two scores on each side, if 3/8" thick use 4 scores on each side and if ½" thick use 6 scores on each side. The spacing between scores should roughly be 0.125".

CAUTION: You must leave at least 1/8" of the original thickness of the liner intact. For example, a 1/2" liner is scored 3/8" deep.

If the radius of a "clear-out" is greater than 12", prepare as if 5 total score marks will be made leaving 4 equal sections. When it comes time to actually score the liner, you will only score 4 of the 5 indicated marks. The spacing between the saw cuts should be calculated as follows:

(Total Width of Clear-Out / Desired # of Equal Sections)

With a straight edge and a grease pencil or a chalk like, clearly mark each section down the entire length of the liner. With a 0.125"wide circular saw blade score the liner but DO NOT make the first score mark closest to the floor. Complete that and each of the 3 remaining scores down the entire length of the liner. By skipping the first score, yet spacing your scores as if that cut will be made the liner will lay much flatter to the floor in that radius.

CAUTION: You must leave at least 1/8" of the original thickness of the liner intact. For example, a 1/2" liner is scored 3/8" deep.

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LAYOUT FOR BEDS WITH A 45° CLEAR-OUT

For a 45° clear-out, score marks will match clear-out marks on the lining surface. One 3/8" wide router or 1/8" thick saw cut per bend.

CAUTION: You must leave at least 1/8" of the original thickness of the liner intact. For example, a 1/2" liner is scored 3/8" deep.

LAYOUT FOR BEDS WITH RADIUS CLEAR-OUTS 12" OR LESS

If the width of the radius "cut-out" is 12" or less, 5 total score marks will be made leaving 4 equal sections. The spacing between the saw cuts should be calculated as follows:

(Total Width of Clear-Out / Desired # of Equal Sections)

With a straight edge and a grease pencil or a chalk like, clearly mark each section down the entire length of the liner. With a 0.125"wide circular saw blade score the liner at the 5 marks, 1 at each mark along the entire section.

CAUTION: You must leave at least 1/8" of the original thickness of the liner intact. For example, a 1/2" liner is scored 3/8" deep.

There are various fastening techniques that can be used to install Redco™ liners.

5/16" X 1 ½" AND ¼" X 1 ½" CAPPED BOLTS
It is important to note that this system requires that holes be drilled in the lining surface. Ramex ® capped bolts are certainly the quickest fastener to install, and when used, the entire installation requires the least amount of welding.

STAINLESS STEEL OF ALUMINUM WELD WASHERS
These fasteners are optimal when drilling holes I the lining surface is not an option. The multi level washers fit snugly in the "pre-machined recesses" of the liner surface. They lie flat against the lining surface, and just below the liner surface. A spot weld is then used to hold the washer firmly in place. The welder must use extreme caution to prevent burning by minimizing heat near the poly liner.

IMPORTANT:Poly liners can ignite when exposed to open flame, it is suggested that a fire extinguisher be kept on the job sit at all times.

5/16" X 1 ½" STAINLESS STEEL BUTTON HEAD BOLTS, WASHERS AND NUTS
This method does require the drilling of holes in the lining surface, but it has proven to be an efficient technique. This system is recommended on most aluminum surface-lining projects.

Regardless of the fastening techniques used, it is important to make certain that the liner must lie flat on the lining surface, and fit snugly in the clear-outs. This can be done with the aid of load bars, and "C" clamps and/or other mechanical braces. All fasteners should be installed 4" back from the front edge of the liner only, and on 4" - 6" centers.

Note that ½" of expansion allowance is left under the metal cover strip. This is required to allow the liner to expand properly.

When installing side metal cover strips, be certain to allow for tailgate clearance. If a liner will be installed on the tailgate, allow for that excess liner material. Use load bars and "C" clamps again to hold the liner firmly in place. Establish a reference point to keep the edge protector straight and consistent. If a reference point cannot be established, use a chalk line or straight edge to establish a reference point on the lining surface. Continuously weld or bolt the top edge of the protector. Check periodically to make certain the edge protector to the liner surface. Check periodically to make certain the edge protector remains straight. Two inches of the liner material must remain firmly under the edge protector. This will prevent contraction during cold weather. After installation of the side metal cover strips is complete, attention must be given to the hoist pedestal section of the bed. Position the flat bar or angle iron to the front wall and doghouse so that loose materials can not migrate underneath the liner. Continuously weld the flat bar or angle iron in place around the doghouse.

Examine the installed liner, looking for any seams that would allow materials to work behind the liner, not on the top of the surface of the liner, as it will not cure to the plastic.